|
Archived
Articles Page 2
Herds
- introducing a new horse
Competition
Savvy ~ Insurance Issues ~
How to be Officially Assessed ~ Flying
Changes Formula ~ Natural Habitat ~
Hoofcare Naturally ~ My Barefoot Horse
HERD
INTERACTION - Its Vital for your horse's mental health by Cynthia Cooper.
Have
you ever seen a horse flatten its ears at the approach of other horses,
constantly threatening to kick or acting scared when it gets close to
another horse?
Often people think the horse is being aggressive and anti-social, which
it is, but that's not always because it’s a dominant horse.
Many
horses display this behaviour because they are fearful of the proximity
of other horses, and our usual reaction is to punish them for it.
Instead, we should be reassuring, acting as the 'alpha' for our horse
and trying to solve the problem at its roots.
That way, we can help the horse to become calm and confident, particularly
amongst other horses, which is where we would like to be seen with our
'partner' displaying good manners.
Unfortunately,
many horses are kept in a far from ideal environment, and far from a natural
one.
To start with, we tend to keep them in small areas, sometimes confined
to stables and yards, rather than in the wide open spaces and herd situation
that nature provides for them.
When a horse is isolated from his own species, he can become perverse
in his behaviour when re-united with them.
For instance, young colts are almost always separated from the herd as
they come up to yearling age when their behaviour gets precocious. They
then get a distorted opinion of themselves, especially when they can push
people around too.
This results in injury when they are put back in a herd situation as they
push the boundaries and get put back in their place.
If people separate horses "in case they injure each other",
they are more or less sentencing that horse to solitary confinement for
the rest of their lives until their show/performance career is over.
Young
horses especially need herd interaction to develop a comfortable relationship
with other horses. Without that, they can be very fearful of the approach
of another horse, which they show by threatening to bite or kick in order
to clear their personal space.
This can be a real problem when you ride amongst others and is a danger
to others that is your responsibility.
Sometimes its not enough to run a young horse with only its mother for
company and discipline. Most mares are too easy on their offspring which
is why some breeders have an old retired horse to be the 'nanny' for a
group of youngsters. That way they have the best of both worlds - discipline
and others to play with.
When
Pat Parelli ran the first 'Difficult Horse' course at "Braidwood"
for Level 4 students last year, the first thing they did was turn all
the horses (about 30) into a huge pasture together for a week. This alone
helped many horses on the road to becoming compliant creatures.
So, if
you're feeling guilty and want to do something about providing your horses
with herd interaction, don't just let them loose together unless its in
a huge area (50+ acres) with no places a horse can corner another.
If you only have small areas, get the horses to respect electric fencing
then divide the pasture in half or fence off a smaller section to place
the new horse into until it's being accepted by the others over the fence.
Then, watch which horse seems to enjoy being nearest to the new one and
put them together for a while before introducing them both back into the
herd.
Of course, ensure that all areas that could trap a horse are fenced off
and even round off corners as two horses may trap a less alpha animal.
To help
your horse gain confidence when you are amongst others, play the seven
games in an active way to keep their focus on you. By using some approach
and retreat, you can get your horse to accept others in his/her personal
zone.
When you're riding be aware of your horse's comfort zone and be prepared
to move your horse in such a way that you are in control when another
horse comes in your direction. Sideways and backwards or using an indirect
rein to cause your horse to face another, is safer than turning tail.
Ask your friends to help you by setting up situations where you use approach
and retreat and lots of friendly game with each other's horses. This may
take time and many repetitions but its worth the effort to have a brave
and sociable partner.
If you're
not sure that your horse is being fearful or just aggressive, seek the
assistance of your instructor who can also help you plan the rehabilitation
process.
Introducing
my horse to a new herd.
“I'm
about to move my horse to different pasture, where other horses are agisted
and was curious if there are any particulars I should know about introducing
him to the new herd? He's in his own paddock at the moment but will be
sharing his paddock with probably 10 or so other horses. Also, I'm just
a little worried he may get herd bound, any advice or is it just a 'need
more savvy' thing to overcome him wanting to be with the herd more than
me. He's very affectionate, loves company, very curious and playful and
Idon't really want him to lose that towards me. I'm currently studying
level I PNH-going really well.”
The Parelli.com
website has an article written by Linda Parelli on Introducing Horses
to a herd but basically, its best to first run your horse in a paddock
or yard beside the herd and take notice of who he seems to like talking
to or who hangs out with him. This horse would then be the best to put
in the paddock with him as a buddy for a week or, until they have formed
a bond, and then introduce both horses into the herd in a large, safe
paddock which means no tight areas where anyone can get cornered and where
there’s good safe fencing and nothing they can hurt themselves on
if they all go for a gallop.
Your
horse will be better accepted with his buddy who was previously a herd
member but be prepared for some hierarchy battles anyway. Its safest if
all the horses are un-shod so injury from kicks are minimised. If this
isn’t possible, then dividing the paddock with electric tape and
making the herd smaller by dividing in half (keep obvious friends together
and it usually works better to have mares and geldings separate) minimises
the risks of bullying.
When
you release your horse into the herd, do it while they are well away from
you otherwise, you risk being caught in the middle of the first introductions.
Also, have another person or two on stand by in case there is a problem
with a dominant horse being too aggressive towards the newcomer who may
need to be rescued and removed until he is accepted over the fence a bit
longer.
As for
becoming herd bound – yes, your level of savvy definitely helps
your horse have confidence in you and your decision to leave the herd.
Keep in mind that the herd will be a comfort zone and your horse will
be happier staying close to that comfort zone and gradually being asked
to go further away in approach and retreat steps rather than expecting
him to just cope with leaving.
If you
take your horse out from the herd to feed him, then you and the feeding
area will become a comfort zone that your horse won’t mind going
to. Try not to be too demanding when you first start asking him to leave
the herd, as he will then think that all you do is provide discomfort.
With small, gradual steps, you will be able to keep his affectionate,
curious and playful attitude towards you by making it fun and comfortable
for him to be with you in more demanding situations like going for a trail
ride.
INSURANCE
ISSUES - are you covered when not using a bridle or wearing a helmet?
Insurance or lack of it is a big issue at the moment for many horse riding
activities so if you're lucky enough to be covered, it may pay to check
what activities you're covered for. You may also like to check if there
are any exclusions such as no coverage when you don't use a bridle (most
likely on public roads) or wear a currently approved safety helmet.
If you belong to an organisation such as ATHRA (Australian Trail Horse
Riding Association), the EFA, The Driving Society or The Arabian Horse
Society to name a few, your membership may cover you outside the events
they organise but it would be wise to find out exactly what you are covered
for before assuming you will be covered for everything or in every situation.
Some organisations will only cover you if you wear an approved safety
helmet while riding, some may only cover for third party property damage
and some may not cover you if you don't use a bridle when riding on a
public road.
If you are required to wear a helmet, then it must have the current safety
standard approval which is AS3535. These helmet ratings are usually updated
every 2 or 3 years so it means replacing your old helmet for a new one.
Remember also to replace your helmet if you do have a fall where your
head hits something.
If your insurance policy specifies that your horse should wear a bridle
and you mostly ride in a natural hackamore or halter, then you will need
to teach your horse to accept a bridle and bit for this purpose. You can
do this by starting to use a savvy string in his/her mouth until it is
accepted (no chewing while doing all your usual riding), then ride with
your bridle (without the reins) on over the hackamore until the bit is
accepted.
Then add the reins and just use them every now and then for short periods
and in conjunction with the hackamore rein until your horse is comfortable
at all gaits and with all directions.
There's absolutely no reason why you can't ride on a public road or a
trail ride with the bridle and hackamore together. In fact this would
make it even safer as you have the option of controlling your horse (with
the hackamore reins) without inflicting extra pressure, and therefore
pain during a stressful moment by over-using the bit.
One day in the future (not too distant I hope) more people will understand
that it is just as effective to control a horse using one rein and rope
halter or natural hackamore (as opposed to a mechanical hackamore) so
these 'bridle' rules will not need to be enforced. Until then, traditional
riding has given the majority of people the impression that you need a
bit to control a horse. As a natural rider, you need to be the best example
you can and 'go with the flow'. By being a responsible 'natural' rider,
you will provide a positive image that will hopefully inspire others to
follow your path of horsemanship.
Those who closely follow the Parelli program (through studying the Savvy
Packs, being assessed for their levels and attending courses/lessons)
will obviously shine as good examples of horsemanship. I hope you are
in the process of becoming an outstanding example of good horsemanship
because we need so many more of you to help show there is another way.
FLYING
CHANGES FORMULA
Many
people seem to have trouble with the flying changes in the Harmony Level
and as an instructor, I've observed some patterns and come up with a 'formula'
which has helped many students to overcome their frustration's and succeed.
So here's my formula for success.
PRE REQUISITES:
· Completion of the Partnership Level.
· Be able to comfortable canter your horse in a passenger game
for at least 60 seconds.
· Be able to ride the rail at the canter.
· Do 'drop to trot' lead changes.
· Ride sideways without a fence easily, and change directions without
losing momentum.
· Know your trotting diagonals and which leg your horse is leading
with at the canter.
SET
UP A PATTERN
This can be either a long line of logs (phone pole thickness ideally)
joined over a distance of roughly 100' OR 3 cavalletti or small jumps
spaced 44' apart (2 lengths of your 22' line) in a straight line.
5
STEPS TO TAKE
1. Trot an 'S' pattern along the poles on the correct diagonal for each
half circle - swapping your leading hand, diagonal and your focus as you
go over the pole.
2. Be able to trot the pattern with the reins over your wrists making
sure you change your focus as you approach the log, then your eyes, bellybutton,
legs and hands just before take off over the log.
3. Trot to the log/jump and depart into a canter on the correct lead as
you go over then drop back to a trot before the next jump so you can practice
another canter depart.
4. Canter all the way through the 'S' pattern, changing leads over the
jumps then if you're using cavalletti, lower the height gradually until
its just a pole on the ground, maintaining the lead change over the jump.
5. Go faster and ride an 'S' pattern between the jumps, changing leads
over a pretend pole on the ground (the gaps between jumps).
SUCCESS
TIPS
- Get all the ingredients right before trying the 'real thing'.
- If your horse misses a change, keep going, increase speed or decrease
the size of the circle until he changes to maintain his balance. If you
stop to try again, your horse is getting a reward for not changing leads.
- Don't do them slow - be 'on the fly' - a fast canter.
- Focus high, lift your pelvis and arms.
- Have your leading hand and leg higher than the other.
- Get help from an instructor if its not working.
Hoofcare
.... Naturally
Along with a growing awareness of natural horsemanship there is a growing
awareness of keeping horses more naturally, treating them and feeding
them more naturally and now, caring for their hooves more naturally.
So what does this mean? Basically, its all about looking to the wild (natural)
horse as a model. In an ideal environment, a horse lives in a herd, has
10,000 acres to roam, travels 20 -30 km or more a day foraging and watering
and never has the need for shoes due to general wear and varied terrain
keeping the hooves in shape and condition.
When we confine horses, if we want to keep their hooves in good condition
we need to simulate the wear, provide hoof contact with water for moisture
and contact with hard surfaces to toughen the hoof.
Unfortunately, many people have grown up believing that you just can’t
ride over any distance or on rough or hard ground unless the horse is
shod.
For millions of years horses have survived without shoes perfectly well.
Its only in the past few hundred years that shoes have become a necessary
evil.
Fortunately, there are now vets and farriers along with other barefoot
enthusiasts who are proving otherwise.
Dr H. Strasser (Germany) and Jaime Jackson (USA) have studied high performance
barefoot hoof trimming and rehabilitation of horses with diseased hooves
for several decades now and have written several excellent books.
There is also a wealth of information on the internet and many support
and discussion groups available to help anyone wanting ot follow a more
natural hoof care regime.
Personally, I have been trimming my own horses hooves for the past 15
years and have not used horse shoes for the past 4 years.
I have learned from watching farriers, taking courses with natural hoof
trimmers and reading many books along with lots of practice that 14 horses
provide and my horses hooves have never looked better. I used to have
problems with cracking, seedy toe and abcesses but these have all gone.
Even though I don’t get as much opportunity to condition my horses
hooves to hard surfaces, I have never had to say no to a trail ride over
any surface. If its rougher than my horses are ready for, I simply use
Old Mac boots to protect their front hooves which take most of the weight.
I’ve also seen and heard many good stories of hoof soundness and
recovery from navicular and laminits from my students who have decided
to try barefoot for their horse’s health.
While I recognise it won’t always be easy for some, it is possible
if you really want, to develop a strong healthy hoof for barefoot riding.
Many people expect instant results but like anything worth doing, it takes
time, practice and patience to be rewarded.
Some horses who haven’t been shod regularly may only take 3 - 6
months to be sound and with the use of boots for the transition can cope
with barefoot riding most of the time. Others may take 12 months if their
feet are badly contracted (caused by shoes) or have other medical problems.
The old saying ‘take the time it takes’ can never be more
true and in the end you will be rewarded with a healthier, happier horse
all round.
I could rave on for hours but I’d only be repeating lots of excellent
information so do your horse a favour and look into going barefoot. I’d
be happy to show anyone my herd of healthy hooves or how to start.
Here's an excellent
website to start you off on the search for info on Natural Hoofcare -Hoofworksaustralia.com
- by Peter Laidley.
Back
To Articles List
|
|

COMPETITION
SAVVY
By Cynthia Cooper.
So,
you're a natural horseperson and have a desire to get back into competition
or enter it for the first time.
I am often asked the best way to go about it so here are my thoughts.
First of all, attend as many different types of horse events as possible
to determine which would suit you and your horse. Some horses are naturally
suited to specific events such as Thoroughbreds for racing, Quarterhorses
for cutting and Warmbloods for dressage. However at the lower levels
of the sport, you could just about ride any type of horse to gain some
competition experience in your chosen event.
While you're at these events, seek out the officials and ask for the
requirements or rules. Then, study what the winners are doing to get
a picture of how your horse needs to perform.
Its not always necessary to start with a fully educated horse as young/green
horses can learn a lot from just attending competition days without
actually competing.
In fact that's an ideal way to desensitise your horse to all the things
they will encounter. Take them along to watch and generally learn to
relax in a different environment.
Another way of getting 'competition savvy' is offer to help; be a steward,
a pencilor or a strapper to gain valuable experience without your horse.
Once you've recognised an event your horse may be suited to, check out
the handy reference chart Pat Parelli has developed to "Reach Your
Goals with Savvy…"
These are available from your instructor or Horseland stores for free
and on the flip side have a 'Problem Solving Guide'.
This chart will tell you which level of savvy is required for the various
horse sports, for example, endurance and western pleasure require the
Partnership and Harmony levels while polocrosse, western trail, gymkhana
and hunting require the Partnership, Harmony and Refinement levels.
Pat says the first three levels are for the human to learn, then we
have enough savvy to teach our horse.
So his message is hurry up and achieve the Refinement level so you can
choose whichever sport you fancy.
I can hear you all moan and groan - "but it will take me forever…"
so in the meantime, if you really want to get exposed to competition,
choose some simpler things to do such as halter classes, family fun
days or Natural event days such as the Natural Dressage days coming
up. By the way, I'm planning to organise more of these on a regular
basis with varying themes.
Another recommendation Pat makes is to see as much world class competition
as you can. It doesn't matter what type of equestrian event or even
sport, if you can see world class you will get an idea of what it takes
to be the best. There's a saying that goes something like 'Aim for the
stars and you will at least reach the moon'.
So you're now set to take your horse along to a competition. Here's
another saying to keep in mind… "When in Rome, do as Romans
do".
Play the competition game, don't set out to create a new one or you
may be disqualified or at best, looked upon as being weird.
Be normal but with a natural attitude, in other words, if everyone is
jumping in a bridle, reach the level of savvy you need to do that, then
go out and jump in a bridle, setting the best example of horsemanship
possible.
While we'd all love to prove we can jump a course/do a dressage test
etc. bridleless, save that for special demonstrations until it is an
actual requirement for competition.
I know if Pat has anything to do with it, he'd love to see natural become
so normal we could do just that.
One last motto to keep in mind… have fun and 'Keep it Natural'.
How
to be officially assessed.
If
you are ready to be assessed there are a few ways to achieve your levels.
Firstly, you don’t need to be officially assessed unless you are
applying for a course that requires an official assessment which is
usually only the higher level courses or the ISC (International Study
Centre). If you can complete all the tasks in the Challenges book of
the Partnership, Harmony then Refinement Savvy Pack, then consider yourself
to have achieved that level.
However if you’d like to have the Certificate, badge and coloured
(red =level 1, blue = level 2, green = level 3) savvy string you can
be officially assessed by an endorsed instructor, either live or by
video.
If you are assessed live, you will need to complete the tasks as they
are read by the instructor from the test (these can be obtained from
www.parelli.com on the assessment page – download the criteria
to see what constitutes a pass).
Expect to pay the cost of a private lesson as it takes around an hour
to complete the Partnership level or more for Harmony & Refinement.
If you have any re-submits, you only need to be re-assessed for these
tasks, not the whole test.
The alternative is to send a video to an endorsed instructor (2* for
Level 1 or 3* for Level 2 & 3) – The cost will vary between
instructors (I charge $25 to cover the cost of the awarded savvy string
for Partnership). Remember to include a stamped post pack for the return
of your video.
Savvy Club members can have their video assessed for free if they send
a non-returnable copy to the Parelli Office in your country.
Video Tips:
v Edit it to show just the best example of each task, preferably filmed
on the same day or not too far apart.
v You may be assessed for just one or two savvy’s at a time if
you want ie: online/liberty then freestyle/finesse.
v Make sure the cameraman knows how to zoom in and out – to keep
you and the horse together in the picture but not miles away!
v Try to do the tasks in the order on the task list – this makes
it easier to assess.
Finally, I know most students are excited to know their results but
please remember the instructor may be busy teaching or travelling so
allow a couple of weeks to hear the result. Check to see that they received
your video then practice patience! Good luck and enjoy the challenge
of being officially assessed.
NATURAL
HABITAT
by Cynthia.
I’m writing this from my new home at Golden Valley and it sure
feels good to be finally settled in my own place.
All the horses (15 of them!) are enjoying their varied terrain which
is mostly hilly. When I first looked at the property I thought it would
only be suited to goats but then I thought the hills would be good for
fitness and make up for the smaller area. Its also amazing how you hardly
notice 15 horses on 20 acres when there’s lots of ups and downs.
They seem to enjoy the views and its also nice having them so close
to the house. I’m sure they enjoy the increased people contact
too and I don’t think mud fever will be a problem on the well
drained slopes this winter.
When I look at it, they really have as close to a natural environment
as I can get – rough pastures on gravely soil, a good selection
of grazing plants – they like to nibble at the wattles, blackberry,
dolly bush and dam weeds as much as the grass. They have dams for water
and lots of trees for shade and shelter along with their friends for
company.
By dividing them into 3 herds, I can keep them in smaller areas to rotate
the pastures. The next challenge will be how to educate the horses on
land where the flat areas aren’t much bigger than a 30m round
yard. I’ll let you know what I come up with in future newsletter
but in the meantime, I’ll be exploring the many trails available
from the back door around Quamby mountain with the aim of hosting an
Easter Trail Riding Camp from here.
Best wishes to you all for a propserous New Year full of Savvy.
Have fun and "Keep it Natural".

My herd in their
natural habitat.
My
Barefoot Horse & OLD MAC BOOTS by Jen Clingly
Jen has been a keen student of Natural Horsemanship for many years and
when her young Arabian gelding, Zamir, started being ridden, Jen became
convinced (by her insistent instructor and by reading Jaime Jackson’s
book on Natural Hoof care) to leave him barefoot.
Once he started endurance training, Jen wavered a little, almost succumbing
to traditional shoeing practices until she was again convinced to try
barefoot along with Old Mac boots. Here are Jen’s words on her
experience with them so far. ‘
I
am rapt to report that Old Macs are ideal for long distance riding
& Endurance.
The set I have used to date have travelled close to 300kms and still
have a lot of tread to go.
I am a big advocate for barefoot horses, however, the sport of Endurance
Riding has rules which you have to abide to and one of the more
debatable, states you must present a “adequate shod horse”
for competition. To comply with this, I have been trailing Old Mac
Boots. This allows me the opportunity to bridge the gap between
conventional horse shoes and high performance barefootedness.
I perform barefoot trims on my horse and have spent a lot of time
conditioning and training him without shoes. All our endurance training
is done without shoes or boots. He trains in all terrain barefoot.
Only for Endurance Rides, I fit him out in the Old Macs.
My initial concerns included chaffing, weight of the boots, whether
they would make the distance, whether they would fall apart or even
fall off, the crazy look of them and the perception of the masses
with this radical innovation.
I can confidently confess and with a big smile that they still look
crazy, but I can’t imagine my horse without them on for a
competition, the masses still ridicule but less and less, and more
importantly,
- they never come off whether its in boggy terrain or fording rivers
- they offer hoof protection and there is no chance of my horse
going lame with a stone bruise in them. We can even overtake other
competitors over rocky ground as they slow down to a walk
- they offer incredible traction on slippery surfaces like bituamen
- they offer hoof suspension and support and protection to the whole
hoof wall
- they travel well and far
- they are only slightly heavier than metal shoes
- they take no time at all to put on
- Chaffing can happen if the boots aren’t broken in, but using
explorer socks, special neoprene pastern wraps or Curash powder
will avoid this.
- I am no longer reliant on farriers. (although I do get mine to
check that I’m on track with my trims as I learn more).
The Old Mac Boots are an exciting innovation in our horse world
and the next best thing to running barefoot.
If any one wants further info please don’t hesitate to contact
me on 6369 5555 or visit www.oldmacs.com
PS: Great news for next year. A motion with the national endurance
body AERA has been approved to allow “horses to be ridden
with or without shoes, but in all cases the shoes and hooves must
be in a suitable condition for competition” Amazing what a
bit of lobbying can do! Also, I Would love to see more of you fellow
natural riders out there on the track.
Jen and Zamir
enjoy some barefoot time on the beach.

The new G2 Old
Mac (left) and original version (right).
|