NATURAL HORSE NEWS NOV/DEC. 2005

CYNTHIA’S SAY

Cynthia and Manny - Photo Courtesy of The Examiner newspaper.

Examiner Article – Well I was surprised to say the least when a story written by Kristy Eade of the Examiner resulted in a front page photo on Sunday the 11th of September.
Not only were the photos taken by Will Swan some of the best I’ve had taken, but the story was well written and has given me public awareness I hadn’t experienced before.
Its strange to be stopped in the supermarket by people I don’t know, congratulating me on the story and its nice that many local business people now have a better picture of what I do for a living. If you’d like to read the full article, click here.

Welcome to Sophie and Beccy – Early in October two students from Scotland and the USA joined me for a live-in experience for a few months and are getting stuck into learning about natural horse keeping, hoof trimming and horsemanship.
Its nice to have two capable girls who have a great attitude towards the horses, work hard and laugh a lot. The horses are enjoying the extra attention too now that spring is well and truly underway.

Spring grass warning – This is the worst time of year for horses to be on rich pasture. Spring grass for horses is like us eating at the chocolate shop for three meals every day. Eventually it makes us sick – and for horses, grass laminitis is a huge problem that can be likened to diabetes in humans. If you read the feature article ‘Perfect Pastures’ in this issue, you will discover why horses become increasingly more sensitive to the fructan in grass.
To be help our horses remain sound until the grass dries off, we need to restrict their intake, continue to feed hay as a gut filler/ balancer and keep their hooves trimmed regularly.
Those who trim their own horse’s feet will probably notice red ‘bruises’ in the hoof wall – this can be a sign the horse has had a laminitic reaction rather than an actual bruise. If your horse seems tender on his/her feet or is lame and is rapidly putting on weight, then heed those warnings and reduce their grass intake or keep them off it until late summer.
Some horses even abscess in their feet at this time of year as a way of getting rid of the toxins that build up in the hoof – probably from mild laminitic reactions.
If you need to keep your horse or pony in a small area to restrict grass intake, remember to provide regular daily exercise to keep the blood pumping through their feet to help remove toxins. Also, provide constant access to hay or good quality straw so they have something to fill their gut with, otherwise problems with stomach ulcers and colic can result.
If you need to know more about laminitis then get Jaime Jackson’s book – Founder, Prevention and Cure. Its on sale at www.amazon.com or have your local bookshop order it.

PERFECT PASTURES By Dr Dan Moore DVM
Below are some extracts from an excellent article I would encourage you to read at www.thenaturalpetvet.net.au.
Today colic, allergies, metabolic issues, laminitis, hoof and other health issues are often associated with eating too much grass. What is different about today's grass or perhaps what is different about the horse? Obviously a lot has changed! If we truly look at the way it was and "mimic" what's natural, perhaps we can have healthier horses and avoid a lot of problems.
Today's species of grasses are totally different from the past. Most horses today on pasture only have one or two varieties of grass, with some degree of clover and fescue. In the wild they had access to vast areas of grass abundant species - clover (red, white and yellow) fescue (and since the grass is not heavily stressed it is healthier, having less fungus etc.) timothy, sage grass, wheat grass, safflower, orchard grass, wild oats and more.
Equally important was access to other plants and herbs. Today they eat what they have access to in the spaces we confine them to. Most species of grass (and even grain) today are genetically modified. As I understand it many grasses today are modified to some degree just like most corn, for instance many varieties of fescue are modified to be resistant to endophytes (fungus). This is more so in lawn varieties, I am sure as most people just use Kentucky 31 fescue (plain old fescue) and of course the more sick the grass ( overused, full of potassium etc.) the greater the fungus contamination - a controversy and discussion all in itself.
This is one of the reasons supplements are so important today - horses just can't get all they need from the typical diets we give them, and one of two species of grass they graze just doesn't provide all they may need. There are most likely many ingredients or micronutrients that we have not yet discovered. I believe we will some day classify polysaccharides as "ESSENTIAL" polysaccharides just like there are essential amino acids, and essential fatty acids now.
Pasture horses, especially in today's world must have access to loose salt and minerals at all times. If they don't they can colic, founder, abort and die almost without warning. It all comes back to health of the horse's gut. Any sudden change as we well know can be disastrous. Obvious concerns are getting too much grain or sudden exposure to green grass - but a weather change without free access to loose salt and minerals can be just as deadly to a pasture horse.
One of the healthiest ways to make good pastures and again, often the most economical, is to lime your fields appropriately twice per year. Lime is calcium carbonate. Calcium keeps the soil basic rather than acid. Basic soil is healthy just as a more basic body pH is healthier for people. Calcium in the form of line is cheap and I promise if you have many weeds at all growing in your pasture it needs lime. Don't expect immediate results however, because it takes time for lime to be absorbed and utilized, but it will help tremendously over time. While your pastures are improving it is important to supplement the diet.

JEN’S SECRETS TO BAREFOOT ENDURANCE SUCCESS – Part 1

It wasn’t without a huge amount of trepidation that I decided to run my horses without shoes. I had bought a young Arabian gelding, Imaj Zamir, as an endurance prospect. He had never been shod and would willingly tackle any terrain. I thought it would be a real shame to shoe him. During this time Cynthia Cooper introduced me to the whole concept of barefoot horses and lent me a book by American farrier, Jaime Jackson.
I wasn’t 100% comfortable with the thought of my horse running distances of 80kms without shoes on. Cynthia and I had some blazing rows whenever I thought of giving in, adding to that “can’t do it” mentality. The rules of endurance stated that you must compete on an ‘adequately shod horse” so I was weighing up whether to continue with a sport I love or chucking it in because it didn’t agree with my new philosophies.
Meanwhile the little horse continued to prove to me he didn’t need shoes. Also my 22 year old standbred gelding who had been shod all his life and suffered reccurring lameness was returning to complete soundness and acting like a 2 year stallion with his new bare hooves.
Before I knew it I was working with other barefoot endurance enthusiasts interstate including the very public vet, Steven Roberts who put together a very influential submission for the veterinary panel of the Australian Endurance Body to consider the merits of barefoot endurance horses.
At the TEERA (Tasmanian Endurance Riders Assoc) annual AGM I presented my personal reasons why I wanted the choice to compete on an unshod horse.
After a lot more of the “it can’t be done” attitude they voted unanimously to support the motion to allow barefoot horses to compete.
In 2003 I competed all rides in a full set of OLD MAC hoof boots to comply with the rules and then 2004 saw the rule change come into fruition and Zamir was off. Running bare….!!
He became the first horse in Australia to successfully complete a 100 mile endurance ride without shoes. Now he has clocked up close to 2000 competitive miles with a 98% success rate, and this year we found ourselves securing a coveted Tom Quilty Buckle in the most atrocious weather conditions.
To cap it off, in October 2005 he was the first barefoot horse in Australia to win a ride overall and secure best conditioned horse.
Alas I have developed an unhealthy obsession with hooves and have apparently become a radical advocate for barefoot horses.
I spend a lot of time as most endurance riders do training to achieve a high level of fitness, and the sport of endurance really is the ultimate test of the bare hoof. Rock crunching bare hooves can be established and maintained easily by commitment and dedication to training and trimming.
The following success tips are designed to give you an insight into the training of a barefoot endurance horse. I hope you can benefit from my experiences both good and bad.
Grow RHINO SKIN
Unfortunately there is a good possibility that you will run into much resistance and criticism from your vet, farrier and fellow endurance riders. To stand strong against this type of criticism you have to understand why barefoot is important and how it works. Then you will be able to explain to them why it isn’t harmful and why it is the best way to go.
You have to be brave to handle the ridicule, skeptics etc. The best thing I ever heard was “I will end up running the horse on his coronary bands”.
It really helps to have a support network – so when the going gets tough they will rasp your ego back into shape. Many times my closest barefoot pals have searched books and the internet to help me find answers to the confusions I faced.
I endured a lot of skepticism and teasing for using crazy looking boots on my horse at my first metal shoe free ride. I remember my chin wobbling as I held back tears even though my horse got through successfully. People were unrelenting in their nastiness.
Stand firm on your beliefs
If you think barefoot is best then stick to your guns – don’t be half arsed about it .
Hold strong to what you believe is right. People say I’m radical in my approach. But I never ram it down anyone’s throat.
However I do get off on getting out there and proving it can be done.
Acquire as much knowledge as you can. Barefoot is not something to go into haphazardly. Do your homework, learn as much as you can, take on board all available evidence and make an informed choice on you and your horse’s individual circumstances.
The WAY TO GO
The role model of a barefoot endurance horse is the wild horse. It is important to keep this in the back of your mind every time you are thinking and talking hooves. What you are trying to achieve is rock crunching hooves, willing and able to handle any terrain for long distances. It is not an easy feat.
The key to conditioning is to gradually build tough hardened sole callous. Otherwise high performance won’t be possible. To do this, the hooves have to be worked -through exercise and movement.
If your horse is mincing his steps you can’t expect him to go barefoot.
Your horse will need time and/or hoof boots.
It is also important to understand that no training program suits every horse. With endurance, you need a two year minimum commitment to get your horse to a consistently competitive level. A seasoned horse is one that having gained endurance status, has been in regular work and competition for a minimum of two full seasons, bare foot or shod.
My horse’s feet are by no means perfect. But they are competent and capable in performance. Natural hooves are all individual. They can differ either because they weren’t started on a barefoot program young, they may have been shod most of their life, or they may have been trimmed incorrectly. There are as many different reasons as there are different horses.
Rest assured that your horse whatever its breed, sex temperament, state of soundness is a good candidate for natural hoof care. However…..
IT TAKES TIME – keep this in mind if your only goal is the front line
The secret ingredient I think, to a good endurance horse is taking it nice and steady. Old timers say a lot of wet saddle blankets will make a good horse and this is damn close to the truth. Put in lots of miles in the saddle, walking.
“Legging a horse up” – is to harden up their legs and toughen up their feet. Your local terrain will govern your program. Legging up tones up the muscles, tendons and ligaments and turns the fat into spunky muscle. Long distance walking stimulates the blow flow through the hooves to the heart.
Long steady work builds a solid foundation of fitness for your horse and you. It is the key to training a barefoot endurance horse – I can probably leave it at that.
But there is more…
SET REALISTIC GOALS.
Goals need to be realistic and flexible. It’s just as important to know when not to train as when to train.
You can never do too many training rides in the early days of your competition.
Being at an actual ride gives a young horse experience, a chance to learn the ropes, to give them confidence. Get them accustomed to things at home, like a thermometer up their bum, their pulse being taken, de-sensitize them to the noise of generators, lights etc.
I started my first competition with the attitude that I just wanted to get round.
I wanted to use it as an educational day-out for my horse and a good experience.
GET TO KNOW YOUR HORSE
Get to know your horse! His attitude, his strengths and weaknesses, his working heart rate, his resting heart rate, his drinking and eating habits.
Get in tune with them.
Be observant. Not only to improve their fitness, but to keep them sound and problem free.
Recognize what their natural ability is. When they are tired? When their feet are sore? Know their average speed?
The people who know my horse can’t believe he is an endurance horse because at training he is doing only that – what he has to, to tick along, burn his fuel and keep his metabolism going, and to stimulate hoof mechanism.
He saves himself for the arduous competition demands and I know and admire that about him – economically smart - is probably a good word for him .
BE METICULOUS WITH THEIR FEET
My guru, Pete Ramey’s words hit home hard, “ you have a high performance horse here, with the spotlight on his feet – keep them perfect!! Don’t be slack on this”.
To be inspired by someone who is of godlike hoof proportions and for them to have a go at me for doing a “council trim” on his hooves (using the bitumen to rasp).
I suddenly realized the importance barefoot horses abilities play in convincing the skeptics that it is possible and by having a hoof that looks a work of art at the same time gets them rocking back on their heels.
Get to know your horse’s hooves intimately, obsessively.
How do they break over? How thick is the wall? Is it smooth and straight down from the hairline to the ground? What is the frog like? Can you imagine where the coffin bone is sitting? Does your horse have concavity? Sole callous? What about the heel buttresses? How low are the heels? What are the bars doing?
How does your trim impact on your horse?
Have you got the mustang roll down pat – so that you don’t get splits, chips, flaring. When has growth exceeded wear? When has wear exceeded growth? When do I need hoof boots? Is his white line tight or stretched??
How does your horses move???
Is your head spinning?
In all honesty, you have to understand all of the above and what any of them are doing on your horse’s feet at any given time.
BOOTS
A newly barefooted horse may experience tenderness following the removal of shoes. This is not due to the trim unless it was a bad trim but rather a consequence of either lack of conditioning or the harmful damage inflicted from horseshoes.
Hoof boots allow you the opportunity to bridge the gap between conventional horse shoes and high performance barefootedness.
All our endurance training was done without boots and only for endurance competition in 2003 did I fit him out in a full set of boots to comply with the rules. I successfully completed 4 x 40km rides and 4 x 80km rides. I would never have been able to pursue this sport if boots weren’t an option.
In our first 100 miler in 2004 I used the Old Macs for the last 30km as I was concerned the terrain demands were too tough for the condition of his hooves at the time.
Old Mac hoof boots made all of this a reality. The are a valuable addition to my tack room and I take them to every ride like my lucky pair of undies!
A set can easily handle 3 x 80km rides. I know trail riders who haven’t worn out a pair in 5 years.
Even though Zamir can handle the long distances I wouldn’t hesitate to put them on if wear exceeded growth during any demands I placed on him.

Don’t miss part 2 of Jen’s Success Tips in the Jan/Feb 2006 newsletter.

ASK CYNTHIA – Kicking Horse
I have recently bought a little 3/4 Arab mare as a second horse to ride and would love your help with her. She came to me very nervous and worried and has not had much done with her over the last 4 years.
She has settled in well and I am gaining her trust and she's nowhere near as worried as she used to be on the ground. I’ve been playing the 7 games with her and spending as
much time as I can doing groundwork with her but still have a long way to go. She was very disrespectful when she first came to me but is very responsive and learns quickly and I am aware not to use too much energy with her as she's quite sensitive.
My main problem with her is that she cow kicks when you clean out her hind feet. And she doesn’t just kick out, she steps over towards you and kicks out! This is of course very disrespectful and not acceptable behaviour not to mention dangerous!
My question is - what should I be doing to a) protect myself from being kicked and b) stop her from doing it.
I have been playing the friendly game a lot with the carrot stick and using it to rub down her legs and feet and giving her lots of praise and encouragement. She will stand quite happily while I do that, but the minute you ask to pick up her feet she will lash out at you.
Friends have suggested that I keep playing the friendly game and use lots of encouragement but also said to email you as I’m sure you will have other ideas how to deal with this problem.

It sounds like your new mare will teach you a lot!
Even though she seems to be assertive towards you, its most likely that she’s worried about her legs being confined in the hands of a perceived predator.
Being friendly is definitely a good starting point so continue to use the stick to keep yourself safe, then add friendly with the rope to prepare her for the next stage. Once she accepts the rope swinging around her legs, loop it around her pastern and gently lift the leg forward a little, just enough that it releases. Work gradually to where you can lift it up and down with a rhythm before you try to hold it up.
If she kicks at the rope, just go with it and keep the rope there without fighting her.
This way you can stay out of kicking range and she won't be able to get rid of you as you're attached to the rope. Once you can hold it up for a few seconds then add rubbing your hand on her leg with the rope still around to hold it up.
Once she can accept that, then lift her leg out of the rope and put it down a few times.
Even when you are ready to lift the leg towards the back, keep the rope on it in case she kicks and you need to let go with your hand. Try to hold the leg low - she may have even developed the kicking habit because she is in pain from having it lifted too high. I'd even get her checked out by the chiropractor in case she still has a physical problem.
I hope all these suggestions help so let me know how you go.

December 2005 newsletter Update - click here

• A DVD of 100 Things to do with your horse by Quantam Savvy.
• New Easy Bares hoof boots by Easycareinc .
• Hoof Trim Manual by Dr. Tom Teskey DVM
• Spirit of Equus new clothing designs
• No Bit Bridles new arabian style
• Rydair Anti-slip Saddle Pads
• Aussie Rider Jackaroo Overhat
• Equipro 4C Performance Feed
• Carlos Tabernaberri caring horsemanship
• Equifence by Gallagher (avail. Roberts stores)
• Free to Move Saddle Fit Video by Caroline Hamilton
  Articles inspired by Equitana will appear in the next newsletter.

Treatment Summary:
*A natural trim every week for 8 weeks, then every fortnight for the next 6 weeks & now every 3 weeks.
* Initial bandaging of the front hoof wounds to keep honey in and dirt out until the wounds were healed (3 months).
* Painkillers to keep spirits up and encourage some movement (gradually phased out after 4 weeks).
* Confinement away from grass in a large stock yard on soft footing (wood chips & straw then some pea sized gravel was added in wet areas).
FOOD ALLOWED:
Free choice average quality grass hay plus oaten chaff with supplements and a small amount of pellets (Hygain Ice recommended) and a few carrots and apples for variety.
Once the hooves have regained shape a small amount of grass is allowed daily (1 hour of grazing with a muzzle on). Once the grass dries off, more grazing can be gradually offered.

Glynn's worst front hoof showing the pedal bone right down through the sole.

The same front hoof 9 months later with the wound totally grown out.

Glynn 9 months after treatment began - looking and feeling great.

See more photos of his treatment and progress here.

STUDENT NEWS & Photos

Lisa’s new filly Aria and her mum.

Kristal’s filly Ellie with mini friend, Little Boy having some fun.

CAR BOOT SALE New & Used Horse Riding Gear
West Tamar Pony and Riding Club are organising a Car Boot Sale
SO…Have a spring clean out, grab a stall & turn that unwanted gear into $ $ $ $ $
Where: Edinburgh Park, Gravelly Beach (WTPC grounds)
When: Saturday 12th November, 2005
Time: 10:00am – 2:00pm
Cost: $10:00 (per standard stall – for individuals)
$20:00 (per large stall and business owners)
All stalls must be pre booked before: FRIDAY 4th NOVEMBER and paid for on the day.
Book now and get prime positions. Late bookings will need to pay an extra $5.00 per stall.
Bookings and enquiries to: Belinda Cossins Ph.63 943 207 or 0417 150 268

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